25. ¿Yo? Viajera.

por Itzia Rangole.

I: Esto explica todo.

Fotografía obtenida de News Oaxaca.

Fotografía obtenida de News Oaxaca.

“Si naciste con el don de ver cosas extrañas,
o las cosas invisibles,
cabalga diez mil días con sus noches,
hasta que la edad tiña tus cabellos de nieve,
con todo, cuando vuelvas contarás
las maravillas que te ocurrieron”.

(Canción de John Donne).

II: Yo, la que se va de casa.

Ya hice los cálculos, cabalgar durante 10 000 días con sus 10 000 noches implica estar ausente de casa durante 27 años y 4 meses – redondeando la cifra -. En mi caso significa que volveré de mi viaje a los 46. Pero esa no es la cuestión, lo realmente importante es preguntar: ¿a dónde volveré? ¿Cuál es ahora y cuál será – para ese entonces – mi hogar?

III: Yo, la que ya no es.

Mi historia comenzó en Tampico, en una construcción grande de dos pisos, rosada, con vistas blancas y portón negro, que está enfrente de un poste de luz ladeado. A los 18 años decidí irme. Me gustaría contar un relato romántico con tintes bohemios sobre mi partida, pero no lo tengo. Nadie me corrió de mi hogar, ni aun cuando ya mostraba los primeros atisbos de irreverencia sexual y religiosa, ni a pesar de que mi familia ya conocía mi terquedad y mis tendencias a buscar lo opuesto a lo reaccionario. Sucedió que un  día se me ocurrió que sería buena idea irme y me fui. Me salí de mi casa con la incorruptible promesa materna de recibir un depósito mes a mes, con techo y comida asegurada, con la firme y egocéntrica idea de cambiar el mundo por medio del voluntariado jesuita. Así fue cómo llegué a Oaxaca.

Esa primera Itzia que parte me resulta hoy una persona tan lejana – en sentimientos e ideas – que ya no puedo hablar sobre ella. Sin embargo, se mantiene un presentimiento – que es quizás lo más cercano que retengo de aquella persona que alguna vez fui –  debe de existir algo más.

IV: Yo, la que se sorprende de cosas tan simples.

Cuando recién llegué a Oaxaca, lo primero que hizo que me diera cuenta de que estaba muy lejos de los míos, fue cuando me dictaron por primera vez el número de un celular. Me dijeron “apunta”, saqué mi aparato y digité en automático los 3 primeros dígitos que, para mí hasta ese momento, a fuerza tenían que ir: 833, la lada de Tampico. Me corrigieron en el acto señalándome que la lada de Oaxaca es 994. La numeración con la cual me regía había cambiado completamente, ya no estaba más en casa, estaba en un lugar desconocido. Tal vez eso me llevo inconscientemente a deducir que si el lugar donde habitaba era otro, yo también podía ser otra.

V: Yo, la que no sabe hacer nada.

El voluntariado jesuita consta de una experiencia de un año, en donde la persona es insertada en una institución social en la cual trabajará. En eso consiste su premisa. En mi caso – siendo completamente sincera – debieron cambiar “trabajar” por “estorbar”. Yo no sabía hacer nada, no exagero, literalmente yo era una inútil.  Las personas del lugar me tuvieron que enseñar a utilizar una lavadora, a cocinar, barrer, trapear, sacudir, en términos generales: me enseñaron a cómo poderme hacer cargo de mí.

La voluntaria que me precedía era la responsable de cuidar la huerta de mango, 4 hectáreas llenas de árboles, en donde también se cosechaban productos para el auto consumo de la institución y se sembraban flores de cempasúchil para ser vendidas el Día de Muertos. El primer día que llegué me advirtieron que a veces el dinero escaseaba hasta tal punto que lo único que se comía por temporadas enteras era mango – mango con chile, mango con limón y sal, mango para engañar el hambre, mango para botanear, mango para comer entre comidas y continuar trabajando. 

Asentí, agarre un mango y comencé a partirlo con un cuchillo, dije que no había problema, que me podía acostumbrar, tanto que empezaría a familiarizarme con el sabor en ese preciso momento. Acto seguido, mientras según yo confiada y experta rebanaba mi comida, vi cómo el cuchillo y mi mano se llenaban de sangre, me estaba rebanando el dedo pulgar de mi mano izquierda. Asustados, mis interlocutores corrieron a buscar el botiquín de primeros auxilios, el hecho se supo de inmediato: la nueva voluntaria se acaba de cortar. Uno de los escuchas pregunto extrañado: ¿ya?, ¿tan pronto? Si acaba de llegar.

Lo más triste es que en mi casa de Tampico siempre ha existido en el patio delantero, un árbol de mango. Yo veía la fruta y la saboreaba en la jarra gigante de agua que preparaba mi abuela, pero nunca había partido una. Me sentí desfallecer. El día que dejé Tampico, mientras mi mamá conducía hacia la central de autobuses, presentí que yo no sabía hacer mucho, pero cuando vi mi mano, el mango, el cuchillo y mi blusa llena de sangre, lo confirmé. Mi compañera de voluntariado, que en teoría tenía que permanecer junto conmigo un año en el proyecto, supo posiblemente desde ese instante que ese lugar no era para ella. Esa premisa fue también mía,  hasta que me llevaron a conocer el río que corre detrás de la huerta. Ven al río – me dijeron – para que te laves bien la herida y para que conozcas el lugar, ¿sabes nadar? No, tampoco sé nadar. Todo un derroche de cualidades era yo por aquel entonces.

Cuando regresé a la institución, los coordinadores habían decidido que en definitiva yo no podía hacer lo mismo que la anterior voluntaria, no se dieron por vencidos conmigo e hicieron la pregunta que me salvó la vida, la autoestima y el voluntariado, ¿qué tanto sabes de computadoras? ¿Qué tanto sé sobre computadoras? Le explico, desde que me regalaron mi primer computadora a los 12 años, permanezco cerca de 6 horas enfrente de una, en definitiva la manejo mejor de lo que manejo un cuchillo, ¿qué necesitan? Entonces me llevaron al paraíso, una radio comunitaria manejada desde una computadora y convertí ese lugar en mi lugar. De las 5 de la mañana hasta las 9 de la noche era la responsable de programar, de ayudar a los locutores que, poco o nada sabían sobre su manejo, a poder conducir, de recibir a los visitantes curiosos que querían saber cómo se manejaba una radio; me desenvolvía como pez en el agua y mi felicidad fue inmensa cuando llegó la siguiente pregunta, ¿te gustaría conducir un programa, qué tan cómoda te sientes hablando en público? ¿Hablar? A mí me encanta hablar, soy un perico.

VI: Yo, la que delinque la ley.

Las radios comunitarias en México para poder funcionar necesitan robarse la señal radiofónica. Hasta ese instante la Secretaria de Comunicaciones y Transportes únicamente había otorgado, en 20 años, permisos para transmitir legalmente su señal a 5 radios independientes. Me lo dijeron con tranquilidad: esta radio no es uno de esos medios. Asentí confiada. Entiendo, eso fue lo que dije. Uno de los locutores me miró con ternura, por supuesto que yo no entendía nada y a los pocos días me lo demostró: robar la señal es un delito federal que se condena con 10 años de prisión si te encuentran en posesión de equipo radiofónico, 15 si te sorprenden conduciendo y 20 años si además te pueden demostrar que tú trabajas aquí. Ah, sí, él tenía razón, yo no había entendido nada. Creo que no lo comprendí realmente hasta el día en que 2 camionetas de la policía federal, junto con una patrulla de la policía estatal, estacionaron a las puertas de la radio a las 9 de la noche, minutos antes del cierre, estábamos el coordinador, la tesorera, un locutor, un curioso que paseaba por allí y yo, alguien nos dio la señal de alerta y todos nos sentíamos ya en la cárcel.

– ¿Mamá? Hola, ¿cómo estás? Disculpa que te moleste, estoy detenida por un delito federal en el ministerio público de Oaxaca, ¿crees poder venir?

Afortunadamente nunca tuve que hacer esa llamada, ni decir ese discurso que – por donde se le mire – era mejor que el que tenía preparado para mi defensa ante el juez:

– ¿Usted ha leído la Suma Teológica de Santo Tomás de Aquino? Bueno, él dice que cuando una persona se apropia de algo que necesita para su supervivencia, técnicamente no es robar, es tomar algo que le pertenece, pues lo necesita para vivir. Y dígame usted, ¿qué otra necesidad más básica hay para poder vivir que la de difundir y apropiarse del conocimiento?

Los policías nos escuchaban todos los días desde su trabajo, tenían sus programas preferidos, uno incluso era fan de mi voz. Esa noche la tenían libre y bajo el pretexto de anunciar a la población de que por la zona se estaban repartiendo billetes falsos, aprovecharon para conocer cómo era una radio. 6 cuerpos respiramos aliviados ese día, creo que nunca he respirado con tanta paz, y 6 cuerpos dijimos al unísono: ¡claro! ¿No quieren que les mandemos saludos a sus compañeros que no vinieron? Posiblemente fue esa la vez que más amable me porté con alguien que encarna a una autoridad.

VII: Yo, la que regresa.

“Olas altas, olas grandes, que me arrastran y me alejan;
cuando anclemos en Tampico quédense un ratito quietas;
tan siquiera cuatro noches si es que entienden mis tristezas.
(El 7 mares de José Alfredo Jiménez).

A Tampico se le conoce como el Nueva Orleans Mexicano. Uno puede creer ilusamente en dicho apodo hasta que verdaderamente conoce Nueva Orleans y se pregunta muy seriamente: en qué demonios estaba pensando el sujeto que ideó por primera vez tal comparación sobre las 2 ciudades. ¿Dónde está en Tampico la arquitectura francesa que rodea todo Nueva Orleans, en dónde el jazz, en dónde el sudor que se disfruta y que se provoca en un baile, en dónde están los cafés y, sobre todo, en dónde está la calle Bourbon?

Sin embargo, hay algo, muy ínfimo, pero hay algo que en Tampico huele a tinte parisino. Por ejemplo, la calle del centro por la cual corre el Casino y los edificios enfrente de la Plaza de Libertad. Quizás por eso Don Porfirio Díaz nos visitaba tanto. No era el amor hacia su novia Carmelita Romero, con la cual se casó, lo que hacía que el general frecuentara un puerto tan lejos de la capital (por aquel entonces a más de 16 horas de camino). Tal vez lo que empujó al general a visitarnos fue su nostalgia profunda hacia Francia, que buscaba aferrarse al resquicio más mínimo que de ella encontraba en México: el puerto tampiqueño.

Aunque, claro, el calor de la ciudad habría decepcionado a Don Porfirio. Ese calor debió de haberle resultado tan insoportable, tanto como ahora nos resulta a todos los que nos fuimos y que brevemente regresamos.

VIII: Yo, la que toma una decisión.

Comencé a viajar movida por la curiosidad. Un día en Oaxaca mientras estaba en la biblioteca, después de haber finalizado el taller de tareas para niños que atendía, me encontré sola con un libro de geografía abierto enfrente de mí. Vi cuánto me había movido y vi cuán diferente era México en el norte y en el sur y no pude evitar preguntarme qué tan diferente serían otros lados del mundo. Pero antes de averiguarlo – me dije – tengo que saber qué tan diferente México puede llegar a ser. El libro de Geografía de 5º año de primaria dividía al país en 5 grandes áreas y enlistaba cuáles ciudades correspondían a cada una de ellas. Decidí en ese momento, con una fuerza de voluntad muy pocas veces vista en mí, que iba a vivir mínimo un año en cada una de esas zonas antes de abandonar México. Necesito ese tiempo, me aseguré, no menos de 365 días si lo que quiero es conocer dónde estoy parada.

IX: Yo, la que anda vagando.

“Andas como judío errante”, eso fue lo primero que mi amigo me dijo cuando me vio llegar en el carro de su ex novia con la camioneta del servicio de mudanza atrás de mí. Me estaba instalando nuevamente en Guadalajara – viví 4 años allí mientras estudiaba filosofía – después de 2 meses de lugar de residencia intercalado entre Puebla, Nueva Orleans, Washington y Nueva York.

Le estaba rentando un cuarto de la casa a mi amigo por tiempo indefinido, hasta que sepa a dónde voy, esa fue mi frase. Al mes y medio me mudé a Guanajuato.

X: Yo, la que casi termina.

Decidí el comienzo de mi viaje a los 19 años en Oaxaca y a los 24 puedo decir que está casi completa la primera parte. 4 de las 5 regiones de México han sido ya cubiertas: zona norte, sur, centro y oeste, me falta la zona este. Actualmente el libro de Geografía de 5º año divide el territorio nacional en 8 áreas geográficas, pero mantengo la creencia de que seré fiel a mi viaje original. La duda es ahora: ¿qué es lo que sigue? ¿Cuál es la próxima ciudad? Y cuando el tiempo y el plan se cumplan, ¿a qué parte del mundo me dirijo?

Posdata:

“A mí me gustan los viajes. Por lo tanto, al que me ame, le debe gustar viajar conmigo.
-¿Quieres seguirme?
Oscar Wilde.

La última vez que mi primo me fue a dejar a una central de camiones me despidió con un abrazo y una sentencia: “tú siempre huyes”. Y tiene y no tiene razón. No huyo de mí porque esta que soy yo siempre me va a acompañar a todos los lugares a donde vaya, no importa hacia dónde o qué tan lejos esté, mi yo siempre estará irremediablemente conmigo. Huyo, sí, de qué, no sé, probablemente de lo ya conocido, de lo certero, de lo mismo de siempre, de tener que tener todos los días la misma vista y todos los años la misma vida.

Huyo, camino, viajo y en ese viaje, originado por esta insana curiosidad de querer saber más, sentir más, experimentar más, de entender más, de querer cruzar límites, fronteras, aduanas y territorios enteros para romperme la vista, este querer romperme rompiendo mis esquemas por medio de contemplar el mundo, involucra sacrificios, promesas rotas y caminos perdidos. ¿A qué casa voy a volver cuando mi viaje haya acabado? ¿Quién va a estar en ella? ¿Algo o alguien me va a detener algún día diciéndome: “tranquila, ya llegaste, para”? Porque ahora mismo tengo el presentimiento de que amarme a mí no es cosa fácil. ¿A dónde quiero llegar?

Quienes decidimos viajar, irnos y viajar, no estamos hechos de nada que no tengan los demás. Por el contrario, no es que tengamos  “algo” que nos haga empacar maletas, es que nos desprendemos de todo aquello que cargamos, de todo lo que nos ata a un solo lugar, y no sin dolor anunciamos: adiós, adiós, deja que pasen los 10 000 días con sus 10 000 noches y volveremos.

Sobre nosotros Itzia Rangole

(abril 1991) Directora de Miseria. Egresada de la licenciatura de Filosofía y Ciencias Sociales del ITESO. Alumni de Teach for All. Actualmente trabaja en el área de Recursos Humanos de una empresa . Twitter: @_antinomia_

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